Day 105 - Hello Ljubljana!

We woke up to a brilliant blue sky and mountain ranges in the distance.  Seeing the hotel/gym/fitness centre in daylight was more bizarre than the morning.  Breakfast was basic - either a couple of cereals with yoghurt, or sliced bread, meat, cheese and jams.  No fruit juice, diluted cordial and coffee.  As I said, basic.

Al had arranged that we meet her friend through work, Warren, at midday in the city square.  We booked a taxi to go into town about 9.30am (cost was a quarter of what I paid the night before, a lot cheaper to book a taxi than grab one at the train station), and got dropped off at the furnicular so that we could go up and explore Ljubljana Castle - whole of Europe seems to have a castle!!  It was a refreshing change to have a castle that didn't cost a fortune to enter, was not over decorated with gold, pictures, detail etc, but still had a brilliant view.  Al and I spent awhile looking at the displays to get an idea of the history of Slovenia - like most places in Europe, there is a long history of occupation, conquests, torture and war.

View from Ljubljana Castle tower

Stairs in castle - design is of a dragon which is a significant figure for Ljubljana

Dance of Death

Al and I made our way from the castle down into Ljubljana town and easily found Warren in the square.  He took us on a guided tour of the town including a church and street performance by the US Army band- it isn't small so was easy to walk around.  Despite being a Sunday, it was very quiet and appeared to be mainly locals walking around instead of tourists.

Milk vending machine!

One entrance to Church of St Nicholas

Dragons stand guard at each of the 4 pillars of the 'Dragon Bridge"'

Warren took Al and I out to lunch.  I was blown away how cheap it was compared to places I had previously come from, and the food was really fresh and incredibly tasty.  I had potato tortellini in red wine and with salami for entree, and then veal with vegetables, washed down with a bottle of Slovenian red wine.  We were really impressed by the food.

Warren noted Al and my interest in grafitti so took us to see one particular area of town.  I just went nuts with the photos, but here are a couple to show you the amazing work:

Fabulous sculpture that took my eye

Spoke to this guy and told him he should come to Melb to do his art in the laneways

About 5pm and it was beer oçlock so we stopped in at a bar on the river for a couple of beers, did more wandering, then had a small bite of pizza.  Once again, the cost of the food was really good, and the quality of the ingredients was excellent.

Back at the hotel Al and I started researching options for accommodation for later in the week.  What a first day in Ljubljana - thanks so much Warren for being a great guide.

Day 104 - A VERY long train journey

Up early to pack and to get into the city for last minute site seeing before my 12.11pm train to Ljubljana (capital of Slovenia).  I really have had a great time in  Budapest, it is a gorgeous city (so do yourselves a favour!).  By the waay, it is pronounced Bud-a-pesh-t, not Bud-a-pest.

There was a building I read about that looked quite - Gaudi-esque, and was covered in bees.  I had to see it so got a coffee, then headed to Parliament Building via Metro and walked from there.  The architecture is incredible here and it is so good to see a lot of extensive renovations taking place.  There are still many that are in need of love and funds - can't be cheap.  I found the bee building, it was alright but not as extraordinary as I hoped.  Took photos of a lot of other places though, and stumbled across St Stephen's Basilica which is incredible.

Bee building

Tram car

Detail on ground in front of St Stephen's Basilica

Detail in main doors of St Stephen's Basilica

Checking ot of the hotel, I then caught the metro to the train station to go to Slovenia.  It is a 9 hour journey, and frustratingly we spent more of the first hour at a standstill than moving.  At least I'm not in a hurray to be anywhere, I have a seat, and the the train isn't over crowded - it would be good to meet Al though on time.  She flies in from the UK and arrives 3 hours before me.

Train trip overall was good - couldn't really communicate with anyone except one Chinese girl, as all the Hungarians and Slovenians had limited English.  I could communicate however with the ticket collector in German and determined that the 9 hour trip would be 10 hours due to the delays.  Amazing how much of the German language stuck in my head after learning it for 4 years in high school!

The Slovenian country-side is gorgeous, green, lush and very mountainous.  We passed a number of rivers that were flowing freely.  Houses looked typically European, and most had geraniums growing in window boxes that added lovely colour, and the majority also had a vegetable garden. 

I arrive after 10pm in Ljubljana and caught a taxi to our hotel, that is located in the same building as the local sporting club (including badminton courts, gym, sauna etc).  Quite a bizarre arrangement.  Great to see Al.  She arrived safely and was exhausted.

Day 103 - Parliament

I was up at 7am this morning so I could get to Parliament House by 8am to queue up for a ticket for the English tour (recommendation from friend of Mum's).  I made it.  Once I had got my ticket for the 10am tour, I got a coffee (my daily luxury), then sat in a park in the sunshine (and wind), for 1.5 hours writing postcards to my munchkins, listening to my ipod and watching Hungarian people go about their early morning business. 

The tour at 10am was worth it!  We had the same level of security to get in the building as we do at airports.  The tour guide had excellent english and a great sense of humour.  The Parliamentary Building was designed by the person who won a competition - 2nd and 3rd place getters were able to design other buildings in Budapest.  It was styled on Westminster and completed in 1902.  I was really pleased to hear that predominantly local building material was used to create the buildings, eg not using marble as Hungary don't have it but creating a material that looks like marble.  One story was fascinating...after joining the EU the Hungarian parliamentarians stopped smoking cigars in Parliament...or so people thought.  Then, a journalist with a hidden camera sprung them smoking in the chambers...journalists were then banned from taking any sort of camera equipment at all into the chambers instead of being more vigilant on the no smoking rule!  Says a lot about the Europeans and their love of smoking.

Anyway, here are some photos of the building:

Section of it from the outside

Guards watching the crown jewels

After the tour I then wandered around the streets for awhile, as there are so many parks and areas of the city that I have not yet seen, and that are really lovely. I found this one fountain in the square and it was brilliant watching the reaction of the tourists as they tried to work it out - appeared to be sensors so when people walked close to a section, it closed down.  Wish I could show you - just take my word for it....

I visited this huge market, that is located in a building that looks like a railway station.  The quality of the fruit and vegetables was great - I bought a punnet of raspberries and they were so sweet.  The upper level of the market sold tourist items eg lace, trinkets etc but also had cafes selling everything from goulash to beer to other Hungarian specialties.  I had lunch here as the food looked really fresh and smelt lovely. I had a pork and sausage goulash/caserole with rice that was excellent, and I am so excited re the prices, only about $10.00 for a big meal compared to a piddly little quiche in Zurich!

By the early afternoon I was tired and just wanted to crash out and have a rest.  I went to the hotel and spend the rest of the afternoon watching Wimbledon, downloading photos and booking accommodation in Ljubljana for Al and I as we can't stay with Warren (communication mix up as to what month we were coming).

Dinner, I am sorry to admit, was beer and potato chips.  I went for a walk to withdraw money to pay for my accommodation as they weren't accepting credit card, and after the third go found a place that sold COLD beer - the rest sold it luke warm!  I also stocked up on supermarket supplies.

Do you know how hard it is to leave a country without having too much or too little of a currency?  It really is a juggling act - if too much I then stock up on toiletries that are running low, if not enough, I limit what I eat.

Photos are all backed up now on an msn website!!  It is such a relief in case anything happens to my computer.  It has taken hours, but is so worth it.

Day 102 - Buda and Pest

Went on the 'Giraffe Hop On Hop Off" city tour (ie bus driving around the city, you can get on and off as much as you like at the designated stops on the way, allowing the opportunity to see the sites of choice).  I did one of the tours, going the whole way round which takes about 2 hours.  A few facts about Budapest, the place has been occupied by foreign invaders so many times it is hard to count; the city Budapest stems from the combination of places called Buda, Pest and another one I can't remember the name of.  Buda is on the left of the Danube River, and Pest is on the right (I am staying in Pest).  Buda is quite a hilly area, whilst Pest is very flat.

 ...and then on the second lap I stopped off at various sites such as:

• The Opera House - could only see the main sections inside with a tour but outside of the is amazing

• wander along Andrassy street (Budapest's so called equivalent of of the Champs Elysee), which is where I had a stop for lunch - first proper lunch I think I have had since leaving London

Entry to Metro train station

• Heroes Square - neoclassical museums and exhibition buildings flanking the Millenary Monument and Colonade.  The Square was created in 1896 to commemorate the 1000th anniversary of the Magyars' arrival in the Carpathian Basin.  The detail in the statues was incredible.

• Parliament Buildings - all tours booked out, need to be there at 8am to purchase a ticket so will do so tomorrow instead of seeing the Budapest Palace.

Ugly photo I know but proves I was there!

I then jumped on the second bus tour, doing 3/4 of a lap until I had a great place to take photos from across the Danube River of Parliament, and to have a cold beer (very hot day, over 30c, now 5 oçlock, I am on holidays still!)

Making my way along the river I met a boat for a 1 hour cruise of the Danube, that was included on my 'Hope On Hop Off" tour.  Whilst waiting to board I met this lovely Irish couple (couple of Paddy's from Dublin they called themselves), and sat with them on the boat, drank beer and talked travel.  The views on the boat trip, as it was early evening, were incredible.

Back on dry land, I made my way back to the hotel via a turkish kebab shop.  The guy behind the counter looked Turkish so I ordered in Turkish but got a blank stare.  In the hotel I had more hand washing to do then collapesed in bed - it had been a 12 hour day and I am exhausted.  Budapest is fabulous!!

Day 101 - Water therapy

I just want to start this blog by saying hello to all of you out there who are reading it (sorry about the spelling and grammatical errors).  I have 21 registered followers but I hear there are so many more of you out there.  I hope you are all well (how is the knee Jim?) and enjoying life like me.  After hearing of a couple of friends who have lost loved ones this week, I reinforce my motto to live life and never forget to tell people you love them (if you do!)

Anyway...lets get down to day 101.

I woke early, knowing I was on a mission - I had to arrange transport from Budapest to Slovenia for Saturday (in 3 days time).  Breakfast isn't included at this hotel but I had a few snacks left over from the previous day.  Reception staff at the hotel assisted me to find a Tourist Information booth on my map so I headed out and found them easily (after a coffee and 20 min walk).  I was then directed to the train booking office and was so pleased to book the train - it only cost $45.00 and it is a 9 hour trip!

I found a supermarket so got supplies (including watermelon that looks amazing), bought a ticket for the red-double decker tourist bus for the following day (economical way of getting around and also over 30c so hot walking it myself), found a place that sold bubble wrap (for the marionette "pop pop pop), then collected my bathers from the hotel."

I had read about all the thermal baths in Budapest, and one caught my eye as it had outdoor pools as well.  It is called Szechenyi Furdo and is an amazing complex, 2 train rides away.  Inside are a number of thermal baths, saunas and treatment rooms, and outside big pools filled with thermal water.  The water in most of the pools is over 30c.  I didn't think I would enjoy the thermal pools inside too much but they were so relaxing and the smell wasn't too bad.  They give you this funky looking watch which is actually a key for a cabin or locker assigned to you, so you can lock up your valuables whilst enjoying the pools and facilities.  Great system I think, and it is a perfect place to give up any body issue hangups - there are all shapes and sizes here either waddling, strutting, flopping (wet thongs), or strolling around in their bathers.  Beer is on tap - I am a pig in s___ (as Leeroy and I say).  Will look at coming back here if I get the chance, otherwise appreciate the time I had.

RIP John C - you were a lovely man who gave beautiful big hugs.  Thinking of all the family x

As the pictures show in many of the guide books, older men were sitting around the outside pools, or in them, playing chess.  Didn't get a photo unfortunately. Wish they had a backgammon board!

I begrudgingly left Szechenyi Furdo at about 6pm, made my way back to the hotel and got a recommendation for a restaurant for dinner.  I ordered the Kulak stew - speciality of the area consisting of port, chicken and lamb, with vegetables, in a stew, and washed down with Hungarian beer.  In the background musicians were playing gypsy music.  The meal was delicious and cheap, $20 for all of this.  After dinner, back at the hotel I dyed my hair, did hand washing (got the whole process down to an art form now!), and downloaded more photos (never-ending task considering I average 100-200 photos most days).

Day 100!!!!! Kutna Hora

Up early, doing final packing then off to the the train station.  When I buy something that needs to fit in the backpack, I also do a stocktake of what else is in there to see of I can dump anything.  Clothes packing has been spot on – some warmer clothes, wet weather gear (needed as much as in Ireland!), hiking shoes as well as clothes for hot weather (coming up), one going out outfit, and all other items in the backpack are being used.  The marionette only weighs a kg but for some reason it all feels so much heavier this time.

I made it to the main train station, stored my luggage and computer (they have lockers), and then boarded the train for Kutna Hora.  It was a 1 hour trip.  When I got to the town the tourist information was very helpful in directing me firstly to Cathedral of Our Lady, then to the reason I came to Kutna Hora – Sedlec Ossuary, otherwise known as the ‘bone church’.  It is a small church built in the 14^th century.  When the Schwarzenberg family purchased the monastery in 1870 they allowed a local woodcarver to get creative with the bones that had been piled in the crypt for centuries: it was the remains of approximately 40,000 people.  Check this out (sorry, a little carried away with the photos but otherwise you wouldn't believe it!):

The outside of the church

There are 4 of these mounds of bones, in each corner of the church

Coal of arms - look closely at the detail

Ceiling decorations that the chandelier

Thanks again Mary for putting me onto this, I have never seen anything like it before in my life.  If any of you come to Czech Republic, it is worth the 2 hours to get to Kutna and back to see this (plus Ewan McGregor and Charlie Borman came to see it in ‘Long Way Around’). 

Whilst at the bone church I realised what was causing my neck pain – didn’t think it was the backpack as had only just started carrying it again....it is all the craning of my neck to take photos!  Everything I’m looking at is above eye-level.  I have read about spas/Turkish baths in Budapest – I am definitely going this time and it looks as if the weather will be warm (low 30s) so will head to their swimming pool also to stretch out.

Bus trip was long but a comfortable coach.  Trip took us through southern Czech Republic, Slovakia (didn't count in my country list) and into Hungary. During the trip they played dvd's, one being The Hangover.  Gee I love that movie!!  We arrived in Budapest 1 hour ahead of schedule (10pm instead of 11) which was fantastic as it meant I could catch the metro train system to my accommodation, not taxi (metro system closes at 11pm).  As luck would have it I met Serg from Serbia on the bus, he was also going to catch the metro, and he needed to access Hungarian currency first (like me).  We took awhile finding an atm - astounding that at a main bus station it is so hard to find, found a ticket counter (I already had a map of the metro systemj), and managed to get off where I wanted to go.  Bye Serg!

Out of the train station I was hit by how warm it was outside, and the area I arrived in seemed (in the dark), to be quite rough.  I found the hotel quickly though - it is fairly basis but then again I'm only paying 22 pound a night.  The staff were helpful though.